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With a shimmering orange Lucite bar serving up fiery concoctions like Bangkok Bloody Marys, a dramatic stone altar and an ancient Buddha head, the remodeled dining room offers a welcome refuge. The signature dish, Fish on Fire--halibut presented in foot-high flames--says it all. Even the grilled beef, which is served at room temperature, simply zings at first, but the sensation builds, leaving behind smoldering hints of garlic and lime.