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Situated near the entrance of the Chinatown gates, this haven for vegetarians and vegans does brisk business. Bike messengers rub elbows with suit-and-ties at the popular lunchtime buffet, while dinnertime is less crowded. The decor is strictly Communist-era China, with fluorescent lighting and antiseptic green walls. The menu features dishes like tofu "hush puppies" in a heavy, tangy sauce and mu shu "beef" with loads of cloud-ear mushrooms and shredded vegetables.