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Prepare to be treated as part of the family in this humble abode, with a TV over your companion's shoulder, close, intimate tables, glass coolers and molasses-speed service. The laid-back atmosphere is especially popular with Pearlites who love the antipasto, with classic Italian meats--prosciutto, mortadella, salami--and cheeses. Diners also opt for consistent, easyfare including linguine with eggs, prosciutto, onions and Parmesan and house tiramisu, sticky sweet with velvety marscapone and coffee-soaked lady fingers.